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Pizza with pesto. Pesto pasta. Pesto sauce. If there's one thing more emblematic of Genoa than Christopher Columbus, it's pesto. But just like every other "sacred" local dish, pesto alla genovese absolutely must stick to tradition…

Grey, industrial, and unsentimental. Home to the famously thrifty, no-nonsense Genovesi. In many respects, Genoa is still the victim of old, hard-to-kill stereotypes. Let’s face it: Genoa isn’t really at the top of anyone’s Valen…

Summer 1284. The fleets of Genoa and Pisa clash one sweltering day in August off the Tuscan coast between Pisa and Livorno, near the rocks of Meloria. The outcome of the battle is a decisive turning point in Italian maritime contr…