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Architect Renzo Piano sees his home town, Boccadasse, as a “secret, inward-looking kasbah city”. But the one-time secluded fishing village is now part of Genoa, and comes alive on summer evenings. For locals, pastel-coloured Bocca…

Genoa does not exist. It does not exist in the eyes of those who walk its streets, because it is not a city, but a changeable entity. Try getting lost in some Genoese street. You will not succeed. Because Genoa is so many overlapp…

This old-world inn, Antica Cantina I Tre Merli, is a traditional haunt and still serves authentic Genovese food in an atmosphere in Genoa where time stands still. It’s a 600-year-old palazzo yet manages to remain cosy and unpreten…