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Pizza with pesto. Pesto pasta. Pesto sauce. If there's one thing more emblematic of Genoa than Christopher Columbus, it's pesto. But just like every other "sacred" local dish, pesto alla genovese absolutely must stick to tradition…

Summer 1284. The fleets of Genoa and Pisa clash one sweltering day in August off the Tuscan coast between Pisa and Livorno, near the rocks of Meloria. The outcome of the battle is a decisive turning point in Italian maritime contr…

Given the great danger the city was in - besieged by pirates from the sea and by the enemy armies from the surrounding land - its defensive solution had to be not only complex, but brilliant. The walls of Genoa were built and then…