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Architect Renzo Piano sees his home town, Boccadasse, as a “secret, inward-looking kasbah city”. But the one-time secluded fishing village is now part of Genoa, and comes alive on summer evenings. For locals, pastel-coloured Bocca…

This old-world inn, Antica Cantina I Tre Merli, is a traditional haunt and still serves authentic Genovese food in an atmosphere in Genoa where time stands still. It’s a 600-year-old palazzo yet manages to remain cosy and unpreten…

Grey, industrial, and unsentimental. Home to the famously thrifty, no-nonsense Genovesi. In many respects, Genoa is still the victim of old, hard-to-kill stereotypes. Let’s face it: Genoa isn’t really at the top of anyone’s Valen…