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Pizza with pesto. Pesto pasta. Pesto sauce. If there's one thing more emblematic of Genoa than Christopher Columbus, it's pesto. But just like every other "sacred" local dish, pesto alla genovese absolutely must stick to tradition…

Given the great danger the city was in - besieged by pirates from the sea and by the enemy armies from the surrounding land - its defensive solution had to be not only complex, but brilliant. The walls of Genoa were built and then…

Grey, industrial, and unsentimental. Home to the famously thrifty, no-nonsense Genovesi. In many respects, Genoa is still the victim of old, hard-to-kill stereotypes. Let’s face it: Genoa isn’t really at the top of anyone’s Valen…